Vancouver Island, BC

Here it is, what many consider to be the best and most gorgeous of any hot springs anywhere. Three, rock-lined pools are tiered down the slope with the last one spilling into the ocean just below. At one end, a waterfall splashes down into the pool area, offering a cooling retreat after a soak. Sitting in one of the pools, you could easily imagine that you are at the very edge of the world as you gaze out toward the Pacific Ocean from your surroundings of water and mountains.

Directions: Hot Springs Cove, on the west coast of Vancouver Island near Tofino, also may be one of the most remote and inaccessible. Not that it can't be reached, it just takes awhile. Aside from flying in on a plane or cruising in on a pleasure boat, there is basically one way to reach the area. Follow Canadian Highway 1 north from Victoria through Duncan and Nanaimo; then go north on B.C. Highway 19 to Parksville. In Parksville, go west on B.C. Highway 4 to Tofino. Tofino is 150 miles from Victoria. There one finds rugged beaches, dark fjords and wild forests.

Several local outfits can take you to the springs by boat or fly you in by float plane, a distance of about twenty-five miles. From the boat or plane dock, it is about a 1/2-mile, easy hike into the hot springs. Be sure to make some arrangements for your return, whether it's the same day or the following day (camping overnight is recommended).

Kenmore Air Harbor offers direct service from Seattle's Lake Union to Tofino on a charter basis. You can fly from Lake Union to Tofino in about 2 1/2 hours. For details call Kenmore Air Harbor at (206) 486-8400.

Once there you'll realize all the effort was worth it. Soaking in the rock lined pools with a mountain looming overhead, it's easy to understand why it has been described as "magical." Chances are you'll have the whole place to yourself, particularly early in the morning. Off season, especially during the fall months, is ideal. Bathing suits are rarely worn. One word of warning: At high tide the lower pool disappears into the ocean.

Services: Service stations, campgrounds and stores are available in Tofino and in communities along the way. Tofino also has several motels, resorts, and other services. Many resorts will pick you up at the seaplane dock. For a list of accommodations, call the Tofino Information Centre at (250) 725-3414.